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Why not Noise Reduction? White balance, by comparison, is a fundamental parameter of how the RAW data are processed. Before you jump in to the Develop Section, ask yourself what it is you are trying to convey in your image. It is also where you can access the White Balance Controls. Quick Fix: This area is new to Capture NX2 and is expanded by default, as shown in the image at right. Some of these tools are automatically applied. Controls There are four primary areas within the Camera Settings section: 1 White Balance Controls: Use these controls to override the as-shot white balance setting from your camera.

Evaluating WB is probably one of the first things you should do when examining your image before processing it. You can set this parameter to further fine-tune your WB setting using the lower pull-down menu. Move the slider to the left to make the image more blue cooler ; slide it to the right to make the image more orange warmer. You can use white balance creatively to change the mood of an image. Take one image with the gray card in the scene, then shoot normally without the card.

The Gray Point settings will appear. Move the mouse over your image-- you should see an eyedropper icon appear. A note about gray cards: Lots of pocket gray cards are available, but a really handy one is the Whibal card, because it is very small and the gray color goes all the way through the card. That way, if it were to become scratched, the card would not lose effectiveness.

Left: Original image. Because you can control all the parameters in the Non-Picture Control dialog with Picture Controls, I recommend switching to the Picture Control dialog using the drop-down menu. A D40 image and D image processed with the same Picture Control settings will have the same look, just as two images from different film cameras shot with the same kind of film would.

Are you shooting a portrait, where you want to capture subtle tones, or a landscape, where you want saturated colors and strong contrast? Before you continue processing your NEF, you need to decide which preset for Picture Control gives you the best starting point for reproducing the feeling you had when you captured your image in the camera. For images taken in bright sun in high-contrast conditions, Vivid may seem over the top.

The Standard Picture Control preset has a moderate level of contrast, saturation, and sharpness. Images processed using Picture Control will appear brighter than those processed using Non-Picture Control. The processing algorithm in the Picture Control software appears to boost midtones and increase saturation as compared to images processed without Picture Control.

The one parameter I recommend changing is to set Sharpening to zero 0. Setting sharpening to zero allows you to apply sharpening at the end of the Edit List workflow without sharpening the image a second time. Other than turning off sharpening, the rest of the Picture Controls are entirely optional for most images. The Quick Adjust Slider changes multiple parameters simultaneously.

The Sharpening adjustment in Picture Control can be set from anywhere from zero no sharpening to nine high sharpening. You can control the sharpening settings by moving the sharpening slider right or left. The actual amount of sharpening applied will depend on the image, and is unpredictable. Any sharpening setting above 5 can result in artifacts halos in your image; so use it with care.

If you are using the Capture Sharpening presets included with this eBook, be sure to set the Picture Control sharpening to a value of zero. It is often too easy to over-sharpen. Doing so will disable the Contrast Slider. This flexibility can be useful if you are trying to extract the most dynamic range from your image. Changing this control affects primarily the midtones of your image. Alternatively, setting the brightness control to -1 will darken the midtones in your image. A value of zero is the default setting for Saturation Control.

The Preset you choose determines the starting point, the slider control allows you to fine-tune the saturation around that starting point. Because Picture Control Saturation 0 neutral saturation is based on in- camera settings, saturation cannot be adjusted as finely as you can with other NX tools, like the LCH editor. Setting the saturation value to -3 does not result in a grayscale image; the sliders are meant to be a fine-tuning and not a large-scale adjustment.

Moving the Hue slider to the left negative values shifts the hue towards magenta tones. If you move the slider to the right positive values , the hue shifts towards greenish tones. An interesting observation is that while reds and greens shift significantly with hue adjustments, the Hue 0 neutral blue tones are changed far less. Color filters alter the contrast in black and white images-- they lighten parts of the image that are the same color of the filter while darkening their complementary color.

Orange Filter Applied 2 Your image will be modified. In this example, the orange and red filters darken the blue sky while keeping the foreground light. A primary example of a toned image is a Sepiatone effect. Not only will you be able to quickly access your saved settings, but you can upload them to cameras that support Picture Control.

Type a name in the naming field and then click OK to continue. Follow the procedures for creating a settings file described in the Workflow section of this book. This is not something that I recommend; but the utility is there if you want to use it.

Use the Sample Image on the left hand side of the window as your guide. Choose your new preset from the drop- down list, and it will be applied to your NEF.

At the time of this writing, only the Nikon D3 and D cameras support this feature. Transferring your custom Picture Control settings to your camera can be a real time saver. For example, if you have developed a modified Picture Control setting in Capture NX2, you can then load it into your camera and save time with the post-processing of future images. Likewise, if you have modified Picture Control settings and saved them in your camera, you can load them into Capture NX2 for easy selection on your computer.

Repeat these steps to export additional presets. Eject the memory card from your card reader and insert it into your camera. You will see a list of the presets loaded onto the card. Choose a preset and click OK. The preset will load, showing the custom settings. Click OK when you are done. The reverse of this procedure can be used to save presets from your camera to a memory card. Why is this important? You can get much better results and faster performance by applying Noise Reduction later on in the editing workflow.

If your camera offers Active D-Lighting Control and it was enabled at the time of shooting, the Active D-Lighting settings will override the contrast and brightness settings in Picture Control. For me, the most useful tools are the Exposure Compensation slier and the Highlight and Shadow protection tools.

The saturation slider allows for a much more subtle adjustment of color intensity than what you can do in Picture Control. In order to properly use the Quick Fix section, you should have at least a basic understanding of how to use the image histogram.

Overexposed Underexposed Good Exposure Three examples of image histograms. Left: Right-shifted histogram indicates blown highlights and over-exposure.

Center: Left-shifted histogram indicates potential underexposure and clipped shadows. Despite the fact that exposure adjustments are a very powerful tool and unique to RAW files , you still must be careful. Severely over or underexposed images may Correcting an overexposed image. Clockwise from top left: Original image, lose quality if you have histogram showing severe right-shift; Exposure Compensation slider moved to the to adjust the exposure left-- a value of Note that there are still some lost highlights in the lower left of the image-- strongly.

However, the overall image is quite usable. In this image, the overall exposure is good, but the face still needs lightening with local adjustments. Or Left-shift too dark worse, you might have an image where highlights are pushing the right-hand edge of the histogram, Clipped highlights but the image is a little bit underexposed. In this example left , not only are there blown highlights, but the overall image is slightly underexposed.

The image histogram right confirms this. The image will turn black, and blown highlights will be in color the color represents the channel that is clipping-- Red, Green or Blue. First, exposure was increased by 0. Then, Highlight Protection was dialed in until the clipped highlights disappeared right. The corrected image below is ready for further processing.

Strong amounts of highlight protection can sometimes cause color saturation to decrease. This effect can be fixed with the Saturation slider in Quick Fix. What this means is that you try to avoid blown highlights at all cost, even at the expense of some lost shadow detail. This is very useful when you are applying minus negative exposure compensation to an image to recover highlights and then want In this image, the overall exposure looks OK, but the shadows are just a little dark to get the shadow details for my taste.

Move the Shadow Peak showing dark tones Protection slider to the right to recover shadow details. I rarely go above Histogram looks OK overall. Adjust the Saturation slider to the right to compensate for the loss of saturation when using the Shadow Protection slider.

Notice how the peaks in the middle of the histogram got taller. The best way to adjust brightness and contrast is by adjusting Levels and Curves.

You can make basic levels and curves adjustments in the Quick Fix palette. The positive side of this technique is that the adjustments are made on the RAW data. Principles of Levels Adjustment The Levels control can be used to adjust overall image contrast and brightness. The Levels controls are three triangles sliders beneath the image histogram in the Quick Fix window. Normally, the black point slider is all the way to the left on the histogram. The tonal value the black point slider rests on gets converted to a tonal value of zero pure black.

As tonal values fall to the left of the black point slider they are converted to pure black. White Point Slider: The white point slider is on the right hand side of the histogram. Tonal values that fall to the right of the white point slider are rendered as pure white tonal value of As you move the white point slider to the left, you convert tonal values to white.

You can do this easily with the levels tool by bringing the black point and white point sliders closer together. The middle slider affects the midtones of the image. Slide it to the right to darken midtones, slide it to the left to brighten midtones. Notice how the Curves Control bends when you slide the midpoint slider. Brighter midtones Darker midtones Curves If you want to use the Curves tool, simply click a point on the Curve Control line and drag the point up or down.

Dragging a point on the curve upward lightens its corresponding tonal values, dragging the curve downward darkens the corresponding tone values. If you add multiple points to the curve, the steepness of the line dictates contrast between any two points.

Steep lines mean high contrast, flat lines mean low contrast. Use the curves tool with care. Click points on the curve and then drag them to move.

The steeper you make the line, the stronger the contrast will be in that part of the tonal range. Another reason to use the Saturation slider in Quick Fix is because it gives more control than the Picture Controls. By default, the Saturation slider is set at zero unchanged.

When you couple the Quick Fix tools with the Camera Settings, more often than not you can make all the global adjustments you need to your image. Although it contains some useful tools, they rarely come into the equation when processing NEFs.

Of those two tools, the Auto Color Aberration tool is enabled by default and I leave it on at all times. The other tools in this set are for special circumstances and I rarely need to use them. Note: This operation is processor-intensive and will take some time to complete. Refer to your camera manual for instruction on how to create the reference image. Make sure the folder you choose has a NDF file in it. If not, navigate to the folder containing a dust- off reference image and click Open.

Note: This feature is processor intensive. Personally, I just try to keep my sensor clean and use the Auto Retouch Brush in the Edit List to eliminate dust spots.

Color aberration, also referred to as chromatic aberration, manifests itself as purple or red fringing around high- contrast areas in your images. This is especially common in the corners of images produced using wide-angle lenses.

One of the nicest features of Capture NX2 is that it automatically removes color-fringing from your NEFs, regardless of the make and model of your lens.

The Auto Color Aberration tool is enabled by default; I never turn it off. Other RAW converters offer CA removal, but it is usually a manual process involving two different sliders. I find the NX method to be much simpler. Left: Image processed without Auto CA removal. Right: Image processed with Auto CA removal enabled. I find this tool to be hit or miss. But here it is, in case you want to try it out. Light fall-off occurs when the image circle from your lens is not uniformly bright across the frame.

Usually this happens when using Corner shading fast lenses wide-open. The Vignette Control slider can reduce the effect of light fall-off; some cameras, like the Nikon D3, have an in-camera vignette control option, which enables this control automatically in Capture Before vignette NX2.

Moving the slider to the right positive values brightens the corners of the image. Moving the slider to the left darkens the corners of the image.

While de- fishing is no substitute for a rectilinear wide-angle lens, it can work in a pinch. Because global adjustments are the foundation for the local adjustments applied later in the editing workflow, it is critical that they be done early on in post processing. Fundamentally, the Develop Section is not a place where you need to spend a lot of time; but it is a section that you should be thinking about first before you move on to making other adjustments in Capture NX2.

Often times, the Picture Control presets get you where you want to be without further adjustments. The best part about the Develop Section in Capture NX2 is that it effectively takes over the majority of global adjustments to light and color that would otherwise have been made in separate Edit Steps in Capture NX 1. Because the Develop Section is fairly easy to access, it offers a quick solution for getting your images prepared for further processing assuming they even need it.

In the Adjust Section, you can apply many different kinds of effects to your image. Moreover, applying an Edit Step locally does not require complex masking routines, which makes using them easy. Edit Steps are not adjustment tools in the traditional sense.

Instead, they operate as containers that hold adjustments that you place in them. Edit Steps are saved to your NEF as instruction sets, and can be deleted from the Edit List at any time, making them a non-destructive form of editing. The simple answer is that the only pre-defined editing palettes in Capture NX2 are the tools in the Develop Section. For those of you who are familiar with Adobe Photoshop, Edit Steps are conceptually similar to adjustment layers-- the steps themselves are just placeholders until you define what adjustment you want to put into them.

Notice the yellow border around the Edit Step-- this indicates that it is actively selected. Any adjustment placed in an Edit Step can have opacity and blending effects applied to it.

The yellow box around the Edit Step should disappear. Right: Closing the Edit Step and deselecting it shows that it is no longer highlighted in the list. Note: The Develop Section also utilizes the Reset icon. A useful feature to keep in mind when you are applying effects in Edit Steps is the Opacity and Blending settings. The blending modes change the way the effect appears in the image: Normal: Effect is applied to all channels at full- strength. This is the default blending mode.

Lighten: Applies the effect to areas of the image where the result is brighter than the original image Screen: increases the pixel values of the resulting Us the Blending Mode menu to choose one of six blending modes. Tonal values above neutral are lightened, tonal values below are darkened. Tonal values of exactly are left alone.

Multiply: subtracts the tonal value of the effect to create a darkened final image Darken: the effect is only applied in areas where the With RGB mode, you can selectively apply the effects to any result darkens the image.

Other opacity options You can choose to apply the Opacity effect in all channels default , or in individual color channels RGB , or you can apply the effect in the luminosity brightness and chrominance color channels. All told, the opacity and blending modes offer a significant amount of flexibility for applying effects in Edit Steps.

However, there are a few instances where you might want to take advantage of some of the other tools for adjusting global brightness, contrast, and color balance.

Again, it all depends on the feeling you are trying to convey with your image. Central to getting image contrast set correctly is the concept of defining the black and white points in your image. The image will turn gray. The double threshold tool allows you to see anywhere in your image that has a tonal value of 0 black or white.

Everything in between those values is rendered gray. Black threshold slider White threshold slider White areas are the lightest points in your image. Black areas are the darkest points in your image. An easy way of setting the black point on your image is to use a Black Control Point. The Black Control Point allows you to set the darkest pixel value in your image, but it also gives you control over luminosity brightness. The Black Control Point will also remove color casts from shadow areas.

This is especially useful for portraits. The Black Control Point will be visible in the image. White Control Points not only establish the lightest point in your image, but they also remove unwanted color casts.

What about the Neutral Control Point? It can be useful in JPEGs if you have a neutral gray object in the frame. That means that color shifts can occur Midtone slider when using this tool, making it useful for White threshold slider correcting color casts. The histogram will show only the data from the selected color channel.

An anchor point will be placed on the curve. The Anchor Point Tool lets you click on your image to place a point on the curve that corresponds to the selected tonal value. You can also use this technique with the LCH editor if you want to only affect luminosity brightness data and protect the color data. Notice how the curves changed for each of the three color channels. Left: Contrast and color balance were adjusted with Auto Contrast. Right: Contrast was adjusted but color balance was left unchanged.

Fortunately, you can use the Auto Levels tool to apply automatic levels and color balance correction to each image in a batch job. Slide the sliders to the left to reduce the effect; slide the slider to the right to increase the effect. Top: Default settings. Bottom: Custom settings. Use it to control luminance and color. Simply put, this adjustment tool allows you to control Brightness and Contrast lightness , Saturation chroma , and Hue-- all in one step. A unique aspect of the LCH editor is that it separates out luminance brightness information from chrominance color information.

All the same icons are there-- including the Levels sliders reset icons and the Auto Contrast icon. The LCH window changes from the image histogram to something more akin to a color spectrum. Want to darken a blue sky? Click the line where the blues are and drag the point downward.

Want lighter reds? Click the line in the red part of the spectrum to add an anchor point and drag it upward. The resulting curve shows you which colors are affected by your adjustment.

In the example above, yellows and your image and modify light greens are made lighter by dragging an anchor point upward on the curve. I probably use this option the most to make saturation adjustments to Anchor Point Tool specific color ranges. In fact, you use this Master chroma editor in exactly the adjustment same way as the color lightness editor, but now you also have the option to increase or decrease saturation of any point on the entire color spectrum.

In this example, 4 Use Anchor Point greens are boosted and blues are desaturated. The LCH editor can help solve this problem by protecting skin tones from becoming oversaturated. Anchor Point tool But, if you want to make selective adjustments to the hue in your image, this is the place to do it.

As with the Master Hue adjustment chroma editor, you can make overall hue changes or limit Hue Map them to certain colors. Rotation tool Moving the curve maps a color from the baseline value to the new point on the spectrum. Essentially obsolete with the advent of Highlight and Shadow Protection Sliders in Quick Fix, but can be applied in an Edit Step if desired, or if local application is needed. Color Balance Basic controls for adjusting brightness, contrast, and color in an Edit Step.

Most often used during soft-proofing to make global changes to color balance. Color Booster Allows you to increase saturation globally in a way that is not overpowering. For example, how many times have you struggled to make an adjustment because correcting one part of your image ended up making other parts of your image look worse?

Edit to add that I am on Vista. I just installed CNX2 2. No issues so far. Jim Johnston OKC 12 years ago. Where did you find that? I can see that in the Release Note. I saw it in the release note and wondered what had changed. Thought someone here would know. Saronann wrote Shouldn't your regional version be correct for where you reside? Interesting question. I moved continents somewhere between all these upgrades and I still straddle two continents, but that shouldn't screw up my SW.

And I still have a US support account. But why should it matter? It still complains that the NX1 activation code is not genuine. What a great way to treat your loyal customers. It was just a thought. Maybe Nikon is "missing" serial numbers in their database, or maybe you key didn't get registered in the correct database.

All just guessing, of course. Only Nikon support can check and clear up the problem. But, take note, this doesn't just happen at Nikon. Adobe has screwed up product keys, both downloaded and on actual CDs for more than one of their software products. We often buy more than one license and I can confirm Adobe has problems in this area. JonBauer 12 years ago. Mine stopped working with this upgrade also. Trying to work with Nikon on this - turning into a nightmare Edited by laughable wilderness member 12 years ago.

CNX2 phones home with the serial and a unique machine ID. If the serial is used with too many different machines it gets blacklisted and CNX2 will quict working. Essentially, your software is validated on a regular basis. I don't know how many installations are allowed, but frequent computer upgrades could cause CNX2 to quit.

Too bad they don't take getting the program to work right as seriously as they are about trying to keep people from stealing it, if it is worth stealing. These software protection schemes rely on providing an activation key to your machine at registration time. The key which is not the same as the licence key is tied, in subtle ways, to your hardware.

I don't believe there are any privacy issues over and above any information you agree to provide at registration time. The number of activations keys active for a given licence code can be controlled, but probably are not as ImageMixer have proved. HTH Bill. NapsWithCats 12 years ago. Gary J Freeman 12 years ago. While I've had my fair share of "out of memory" type of errors, I have not had any difficulty downloading and installing updates from the UK site.

I have just downloaded, installed, and used 2. I say this not to gloat at those of you who are suffering, but to provide more information with which to help those who are deciding whether to download 2.

Hope this helps. Downloaded and installed both US version software updates with no problems at all. Work-around: uninstall and reinstall, then use day trial until Nikon resolves the issue. BTW I don't believe that there is a phone home scheme or an online validation - I get the very same result when my computer is completely offline. Ivan Sorensen www. Edited by Ivan Sorensen www. Hold the phone! I just updated to 2. CNX2 now runs faster overall. I can stack well into the teens edit steps.

I shit you not folks. Entire update process was flawless and happened inside of 4 minutes. Stay tuned. If I have problems tomorrow i will let you know. PMLPhoto 12 years ago. For those having installation problems, have a look here. Hopefully, it might help you get a rapid resolution. Ah, that would explain. I've done countless re-installs, but they're all mine machine upgrades, HD crashes, OS upgrades, clean installs, etc. That's pretty crappy licensing software!

A re-install on the same hardware for some definition of the same hardware should not be deemed to have consumed an activation. Well, Nikon has left me in the lurch with NX2.

They did not call me back last night, as they had committed to doing. Not what I call "good" customer service. I will keep my fingers crossed for the next sessions before I come to a conclusion about the stability of the new version.

Nikon is now telling me that they have a major issue with the 2. They are working on a fix for an activation generator and will have a fix in 2 days Not good news for me, as I need it immediately, but I guess that's the way the cookie crumbles!

Nikon has not gotten back to me yet, so I called and they didn't help, just said they'll get back to me. In the meantime, as suggested by somebody in this group, I uninstalled and reinstalled the latest update, but this time, just hit Trial.

So I am good for 30 days. Martin Haesemeyer Posted 12 years ago. Edited by Martin Haesemeyer member 12 years ago. PML Photo: I find it quite amazing that the author of the thread even writes "Thank you Nikon" for them maybe solving the problem that they caused That really goes to show EDIT: I didn't try to install the update yet. Very happy so far with 2. JonBauer , do as I did - uninstall, reinstall, and use the 30 day trial while they are working on the fix. I processed about 5 raws and 4 jpgs today.

Capture NX did not crash or freeze on me. Keeping my fingers crossed. GroovyGeek 12 years ago. Cnx most definitely tries to phone home every time you launch it. All you need to convince yourself of that fact is a half decent firewall. The best way to deal with that nuisance is to uninstall nikon message center which scenes no useful purpose to the end customer.

Like most other software makers nikon does not insist on active internet connection, which most hackers use to work around copy protection schemes by simply blocking the phone home ip addresses. I run a firewall and block the internet access of each and every program that does not absolutely need it. All image and word processing software falls into that category. Upon installing CNX 2.

Works fine now. There's definitely some funky shit going on with CNX2. Woof Ken Irvine 12 years ago. I think I'll wait a while before updating I am now able to at least use vers. I was able to go back to Amazon. They said that if they could "verify" my purchases, they would send me a Capture NX2 full version product key. I was given a new representative for this last request for the receipts by the way.

Hope that's some kind of a good sign. Bill, in order to blacklist a key, they have to know how many machines the key is being used on. There may be a separate activation key that is machine dependent rather than a unique machine ID, but that is a distinction without a difference.

I don't know what is in the license, but like most It probably obligates you to hand over your first born son and and give 15 years of indentured servitude, so who cares about privacy. Once any software phones home on a regular basis, it becomes a locator beacon, so please don't kid yourself, me or anyone else about this.

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